How to Make a Headband - A DIY Scrunchie-style Headband Tutorial

Ah. The return of 90s fashion, what goes around truly does come back around, right? And the scrunchie - one of the top 90s fashion statements is back, my friends. I remember having three to five of them stacked on my wrist (in addition to the one in my hair). DIY scrunchies were commonplace back then, as they are now. They are easy and fast to make, as well as super giftable. So, in the spirit of celebrating the 90s, we're going to remake the humble DIY scrunchie.

Returning fashion often comes back with a bit of a twist or update, so we're going to elevate a DIY scrunchie into a DIY headband.

This DIY headband is easily customized.  You can choose pretty much whatever fabric you want.  The type  of fabric you choose will impact your results, so you may want to play around with it a bit. Squish your fabric up a bit and get a feel for what your fabric might do once gathered. 

Most woven fabrics (think like a button-down shirt) are going to be a bit stiffer and fuller than most knit fabrics (think like a t-shirt), but both have the capacity to give you a really beautiful result, depending on what you're looking for. 

A stiffer fabric will give your headband more defined gathers and will be fuller.  A softer fabric will give your headband a drapier, gentler look.

Play around with it and see what your preferences are. Plus, once you get the hang of the process of making a basic headband, you can adjust the length or width of the fabric cuts to make a fuller or more minimal headband. The world will be your oyster. 

So, without further ado, let's make a headband!

DIY Headband Tutorial

Video Tutorial

There are written instructions below, but if you would prefer a video tutorial (or if you want both written and video instructions), check out the following video.

(Optional) Printable Instructions

This DIY Headband tutorial is totally free - everything you need is available in either the video above or the instructions written below. However, if you would like a printable version optimized for home printing or if you'd like to support my small business and the efforts put into creating this tutorial, you can purchase an inexpensive PDF download here.

These downloadable PDF instructions are designed to print on US Letter-sized paper and feature black and white instructions and illustrations designed to print clear instructions while reducing the amount of ink otherwise required to print a photo tutorial. Of course, you could always reference these instructions on an iPad or tablet, smartphone, laptop, or other screen device as well, should you like. 

If you decide to purchase the PDF download version of the instructions, I am very thankful to you! Thank you for your support! 

If purchasing PDF downloads isn't your thing, no worries. I would, however, be grateful if you'd pass the information about this tutorial along to others as they compliment you on your fabulous headband that you made yourself. 

Notes

• Prewash your fabric. Wash and dry your fabric following the same methods you plan to use to wash and dry your finished headband. Fabrics can shrink when washed or dried, so it is important to prewash to ensure you know how the finished product will behave after washing and drying. Additionally, fabrics are sometimes treated with pesticides or other chemicals; pre-washing will remove any additives that may be present on the fabric.
• Or, be a rebel and don't pre-wash. Just know why you might want to pre-wash and make your choice accordingly.
• Seam allowance is included on all pieces as specified in the size chart. Seam allowance is 1/4 inch unless otherwise specified.
• There are no "pattern pieces." All pieces are basic rectangles and the dimensions for each are specified in the size chart. Cut with a Quilter's Ruler or make your own pattern pieces. 

Supplies

• 1-inch-wide Knit or Woven Elastic
• If you use knit elastic, you may need to reduce the length of the elastic as recommended in the Size Chart. Knit elastic tends to be stretchier than woven elastic. See Size Chart Notes for fitting recommendations.
• For a more thorough discussion of elastic types, check out this awesome article on the Melly Sews blog. 
• 1/8 yard of all-purpose fusible interfacing
• We recommend Pellon SF101 ShapeFlex
• 1/2 yard of fabric
• If the width of your fabric is shorter than the recommended length of the Exterior Front Piece (or you wish to lengthen it), you can piece together multiple lengths of fabric to achieve the desired length. Because this piece will make up the "scrunchie" portion, it will not be noticeable. Alternatively, you can use a shorter piece of fabric; your headband will just be less full. 
• This fabric amount recommendation will likely leave you with leftover fabric, allowing room for cutting error or to make another small project later.
• You may also choose to use scraps or leftovers from another project for the Interior Front Piece as this piece will be hidden inside the headband.
• Thread

Fabric Recommendations

Fabric options are nearly limitless, though your fabric choice will influence the outcome of your final product. The main limitation is that we do not recommend very thick or heavy fabrics as the many layers will become difficult to sew. 

Stiffer fabrics, such as a quilting cotton, will produce stiffer folds in the scrunchie and likelier a loftier (taller) headband.

Conversely, drapier fabrics, such as a voile, challis, or even many knits will produce softer folds and likelier a more slight headband.

Play around will different fabrics to create a range of looks. Create a velour or velvet headband for an elevated, trendy look. Use the same fabric as another garment for a matchy-matchy look. Sew or glue on sequins, beads, or other embellishments to customize your headband further. 

The Interior Front Piece will be completely hidden within the headband, so this is a good place to use scrap fabric, repurpose a fitting muslin, upcycle old clothes, or use up that really ugly fabric someone gave you when they found out you sew. (Just keep the color lighter than your exterior fabric to prevent it from showing through - unless that's your goal.)

Size Chart & Cutting List

Size	Head Circumference (Inches)	1"-Wide Elastic*	Exterior Back Piece	Interior Front Piece	Exterior Front Piece**
		Cut 1, 1"-Wide Elastic	Cut 1 Fabric	Cut 1 Fabric Cut 1 Interfacing	Cut 1 Fabric
Toddler Small	16	6 1/4"	3" x 11 3/4"	3 1/2" x 11 3/4"	6" x 33 1/4"
Toddler Medium	17	6 3/4"	3" x 12 1/4"	3 1/2" x 12 1/4"	6" x 34 3/4"
Toddler Large/Child Small	18	7"	3" x 13"	3 1/2" x 13"	6" x 37"
Child Medium	19	7 1/4"	3" x 13 3/4"	3 1/2" x 13 3/4"	6" x 39 1/4"
Child Large	20	7 3/4"	3" x 14 1/4"	3 1/2" x 14 1/4"	6" x 40 3/4"
Woman Small	21	8"	3" x 15"	3 1/2" x 15"	6" x 43"
Woman Medium/Man Small	22	8 1/4"	3" x 15 3/4"	3 1/2" x 15 3/4"	6" x 45 1/4"
Woman Large/Man Medium	23	8 3/4"	3" x 16 1/4"	3 1/2" x 16 1/4"	6" x 46 3/4"
Man Large	24	9"	3" x 17"	3 1/2" x 17"	6" x 49"

Sizes are based on the Craft Yarn Council's Standard Body Measurements/Sizing Head Circumference Chart and are provided merely for a frame of reference. Source: Craft Yarn Council, www.YarnStandards.com

* Finished size will be approximately the same circumference as the wearer's head. If you like tighter-fitting headbands or are using very stretchy elastic, reduce the length of the elastic. Baste the final end of the elastic to check fit and shorten the elastic accordingly. Steps 10 and 20 will give more detail on how and when to baste and check fit. Start small when reducing length; you can always remove more elastic, but you can't put it back. 

** If you do not have a long enough piece of fabric to accommodate cutting the Exterior Front Piece in a single piece, you can sew multiple lengths together to achieve the prescribed length. This piece will form the "scrunchie" portion so seams will not be noticeable. Just be sure to account for seam allowance required to seam pieces together. 

Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the Interior Front Piece following the manufacturing instructions.
2. Fold both short ends of the Interior Front Piece back, wrong sides together, by 1/2 inch. Press.
3. Fold Interior Front Piece in half, lengthwise, right sides together. Pin or clip in place. Sew with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Be sure to backstitch at both ends to secure stitches.
4. Repeat Step 3 with the Exterior Back Piece. 
5. Turn both the Interior Front Piece and the Exterior Back Piece right sides out. A specialty tool, such as a bodkin or tube turn, or a simple household item, such as a safety pin, can assist with this task.
6. Press both tubes with seam allowance centered in the middle of one side. Then, set Interior Front Piece aside.
7. Mark both ends of Exterior Back Piece 1/2 inch from each end with a temporary marking tool.
8. Feed elastic through Exterior Back Piece. A safety pin or bodkin will help.
9. Stitch one end of elastic to one end of the back piece using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Be sure to backstitch at both ends. Leave the tool used to feed the elastic through the tube attached to the unstitched end of the elastic. 
10. Continue feeding the free end of the elastic through the tube until it is aligned with the end of the Exterior Back Piece. Pin or clip the elastic to the end and stitch with 1/4 inch seam allowance. Backstitch at both ends. 
1. NOTE: If you are uncertain about the size of your headband, baste the stitches instead (i.e., use an elongated stitch that is easy to remove and do not backstitch). Try on the headband at Step 20 and adjust the fit, after which remove the basted stitches and stitch normally. 
   
11. Collect Interior Front Piece. Insert Exterior Back Piece inside one end of Interior Front Piece up 1/2 inch mark, aligning center, lengthwise seams. Stitch near the folded edge, backstitching at both ends to secure stitches. Set aside. 
1. NOTE: If you basted the stitches in Step 10, insert the end of the Exterior Back Piece sewn regularly in Step 9, leaving the basted end free.
12. Collect Exterior Front Piece. Fold both short ends back, wrong sides together, by 1/2 inch. Press.
13. Fold Exterior Front Piece in half lengthwise and sew with 1/4 inch seam allowance.
14. Turn tube right side out, centering seam on one side. Press.
15. Collect Exterior Back Piece/Interior Front Piece unit. 
1. Feed this unit through the Exterior Front Piece until the seam of the Exterior Back Piece/Interior Front Piece Unit aligns with the folded edge of the Exterior Front Piece.
2. Center the seams so they are all on the same side.
3. The Exterior Front Piece will line up with the folded edge of the Interior Front Piece. The Exterior Back Piece will be hanging outside of both Front Pieces.
16. Presently, the Exterior Front Piece is wider than the Interior Front Piece. Make a pleat in the Exterior Front Piece so that both Front Pieces are the same width. For the sake of comfort, form the pleat on the right side of the headband (the side opposite of the seams).  You may notice that my pleat is on the same side as the seams (which is the opposite of what I told you above). Do as I say, not as I do - from experience, I'm letting you know that having the pleat on the outside is more comfortable. However, I will also admit that I have a tender scalp, so if you find yours to be tougher, in general, you may decide that you prefer the aesthetics of having the pleat on the inside.
17. Sew with 1/4 inch seam allowance. 
18. Push the unsewn end of the Exterior Front Piece out of the way so that the unsewn end of the Interior Front Piece is free. Pin or clip the bulk of the Exterior Front Piece out of the way to enable you to work with the Interior Front Piece unimpeded.
19. Insert the free end of the Exterior Back Piece into one end of the Interior Front Piece, as you did in Step 11, forming a loop.
1. Match the 1/2 inch marking on the Exterior Back Piece with the folded edge of the Interior Front Piece. 
2. Ensure that the seam is on the same side for both the Exterior Back Piece and the Interior Front Piece and that neither piece is twisted. Pin or clip the pieces together.
20. Stitch near the folded edge, backstitching at both ends. 
1. NOTE: If you elected to baste the stitches in Step 10, now is the opportunity to check the fit. Before stitching normally, baste these stitches (i.e., use an elongated stitch that is easy to remove and do not backstitch) and try on the headband. If it is too big, remove a little bit of elastic at a time until you achieve your ideal fit, then remove the basted stitches and stitch normally, backstitching at both ends. 
21. Unpin or unclip the unsewn end of the Exterior Front Piece. Match the remaining folded edge of the Exterior Front Piece with the folded edge of the Interior Front Piece. 
1. As in Step 16, form a pleat to match the width of the Exterior Front Piece with the width of the Interior Front Piece. For the sake of comfort, make the pleat on the right side of the headband (the side opposite of the seams). 
2. The Exterior Front Piece should now completely cover the Interior Front Piece, meaning that only the Exterior Front Piece and Exterior Back Piece should be visible. 
3. Prior to sewing, confirm that none of the pieces are twisted and that everything is appropriately aligned.
4. Sew close to the folded edge, backstitching at both ends.

You did it!! Wear your headband proudly and strut your stuff!!

Tag us @Makeorium so we can see your awesome headbands!

Interested in more ways to make your headband all your own? As we add more related content, we'll be linking it up on this page. 

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