Sewing a muslin seems to be one of the eternal debates of the sewing world.
Honestly, I think it's a bit of a silly debate. Do it. Don't do it. Do what works best for you. But, in case you're interested in sewing a muslin, I've got some tools to help you pursue your best fit when sewing your own handmade clothes.
What does muslin mean?
To the uninitiated, in a nutshell, sewing a muslin (or a toile as it's called elsewhere) is essentially a fitting garment or even a practice garment. Sewists, sewers, people who sew (another sewing conundrum...there's just no word in the English language that quite captures the modern home sewing enthusiast...at least one that doesn't potentially also conjure up mental images of a waste management system...but I digress) use them to check the fit of a garment or pattern, try out alterations, or to practice a new technique before making the final garment.
A sewing muslin generally uses less expensive fabric than that of the final garment, such as that more loosely woven calico labelled "muslin" in a fabric store (hence the name "muslin" for the fit garment)...or that really ugly fabric sewists seem to acquire from someone's abandoned fabric stash when others find out they sew. It's a good way to ensure DIY clothes fit and look as expected before cutting into nicer, more expensive fabric.
I'll do a separate post in the future of the ins and outs of muslin making, but that's the idea in a nutshell.
Why sew a muslin?
The greatest objections to sewing a muslin include time and resources, which I totally get. And, again, I fall into camp You Do You. But, I generally do sew a muslin. And here's why.
They do take more time, but if I make one and my finished product fits (pretty) well and looks good, I don't regret that time. I will wear the garment more often and with more confidence, which, for me, is a good use of resources, including time. I can't say the opposite is true for me.
I have some fit issues that require me to alter nearly every pattern I make, particularly in the shoulder area. I almost always need to broaden the shoulders (sometimes by quite a lot), change the shoulder slope, move the shoulder seam forward, and add space for prominent shoulder blades. Sewing my own clothes has actually taught me why so much ready-to-wear clothing is uncomfortable for me and why I've always gravitated to sleeveless tops and open cardigans. (Spoiler alert - I thought it was a style choice - it's not, it's those aforementioned shoulder "issues.") I made my first properly fitting long-sleeved shirt last winter and it was a revelation. So good.
Clothes, whether ready to wear or from a home sewing pattern, are always sewn from someone's measurements or a conglomeration of "average" measurements, some of which may be out of date as society's bodies have changed. We carry our weight differently and are, on average, taller than when these standards were adopted. None of us are the fit model from whom the pattern derived its measurements (unless you drafted it for yourself) and so we'll always find deviations where we might want to "correct" or improve the fit. Fitting a garment makes me feel good in the clothes I wear and, therefore, more confident. For me, this is a good investment of my time and resources.
I've finally been sewing long enough that I can do a few flat pattern alterations before checking fit on that first muslin, but it's taken me a while to get there. And I'm still getting comfortable enough to know how well those alterations are going to work. Fit is a journey, but it's a puzzle that also contributes to keeping your brain healthy and elastic (another pro for muslins, haha!).
Resources for Sewing a Muslin
As part of my Printable Sewing Planner Bundle for DIY Clothing, I've developed a sewing printable to track your muslins. This helps you remember what you've already done and what you might still need to do. You can reference those changes in the future if you're making a similar garment to achieve a good fit or if you find after many wears that you'd like to tweak those adjustments when you make the pattern again. Remembering exactly what you changed before can help you make small improvements as necessary.
When making a muslin, it helps to limit the number of changes you're making at a time to assess their impact. Some alterations - shoulder adjustments and bust adjustments are prime examples - actually fix things disguising themselves as problems elsewhere. This tracker helps you track each muslin and document the impacts of various alterations if a cycle of muslins is necessary, especially true of a more tailored garment like a blazer or pants.
The tracker is delivered as an instant download, ready for you to print as many times as you need or desire at home or via a print shop (such as FedEx). You can print it, make your notes, and keep your own Maker's Journal. I keep mine in a 3-ring binder.
The Muslin Tracker is part of the Printable Sewing Planner Bundle for DIY Clothing, which also includes:
- Project Planner
- Garment Sewing Record
- Muslin Tracker
- Fit Adjustments Tracker
- Make It! Planner
Let's Get Sewing
Sew a muslin always, sew a muslin sometimes, sew a muslin never. Pick the path that's best for your creative lifestyle.
But, if fit is an essential or even occasional part of why you sew your own clothes, this muslin tracker just might help you achieve your perfect fit.